We offer 24 hour emergency service.
Call (484) 524-5802 for the technician on call.
Same Day or Weekend Emergency: $275.00 for up to the initial 30 minutes. $200.00 per hour beyond the initial 30 minutes.
Next Day Emergency (except weekends): $200.00 for up to the initial 30 minutes. $150.00 per hour beyond the initial 30 minutes.
If you would like to bypass your equipment, please read below for step-by-step instructions. If successful, you’ll be able to schedule your service appointment in the normal schedule and save money.
Current Labor Rate: $114.95 for up to the initial 30 minutes. $100 per hour beyond the initial 30 minutes.
Newer Water Softeners
Newer water softeners and acid neutralizers have the bypass built into the back of the control valve.
This is the Service Position. Notice that the bypass valves are in line with the pipes. This is how the valves should look when the unit is being used.
This is the Bypass Position. Notice that the bypass valves are perpendicular to the pipes. This is how the valves should look when the unit is bypassed.
The purpose of a three-valve bypass system is to allow a piece of equipment to be isolated, while still allowing water in the hours should an emergency with that equipment happen.
Please remember that if something is bypassed, the water in the house may not be drinkable, but at least it may be able to be used for showering, flushing and laundering until the emergency can be resolved.
For instructions on installing a three-valve bypass, click below to read or print out:
Some units have a 3-valve bypass built around the unit:
This is the Service Position. Notice that the in and out valves are in line with the pipes (open) and the bypass valve is perpendicular to the pipe (shut). This is how the valves should look when the unit is being used.
This is the Bypass Position. Notice that the in and out valves are perpendicular to the pipes (shut) and the bypass valve is in line with the pipe (open). This is how the valves should look when the unit is bypassed.
Read below to self-diagnose the problem OR call (484) 524-5802 to reach the technician on call.
- Check the gauge at the pressure tank. If it is properly functioning, it should generally be reading anywhere from 20 to 60 psi.
- If the pressure gauge is reading 0, check the circuit breakers/ fuses. Sometimes a breaker may appear to be on but is actually tripped. Turn the breaker off, and then back on.
- Put a hose on the valve at the bottom of the pressure tank and run water. If you get at least 5 gallons of water under pressure here, then the problem is most likely not in the well but in the plumbing.
- If the pressure comes back on by itself, and there are wide swings in the pressure in the house, then the switch and/ or nipple leading to the switch is/are most likely clogged.
- If you get no water at the bottom of the pressure tank, carefully remove the cover to the pressure switch and see if the contacts are closed.
- If you have a multimeter, carefully check for voltage on each of the 4 legs of the switch.
- If the contacts are closed and there is voltage on each of the 4 legs of the switch, then the problem is either in the well pump itself or the pump control box mounted on the wall nearby.
- Pump control boxes have a capacitor in them, and they will blow if there is a well pump problem. Just replacing the pump control box will not necessarily solve the problem.
- If you have pressure at the pressure tank, and you have water treatment equipment, bypass the equipment one piece at a time to possibly figure out if one of the units is causing the problem.
- If there is a cartridge type filter in line, investigate that first, even though it may not appear dirty.
- WELL ISSUE? Is it possible to connect a garden hose from your neighbor’s house to yours so you have water until we can get out there and solve the issue? You will need a female by female hose (i.e. washing machine hose) or adapter to do this since both hose bibs are male and a garden hose is male and female.